Surfing Non-Fiction, from memoirs to history.
created by jj0rrdyy
last updated April, 2026
All Our Waves Are Water: Stumbling Toward Enlightenment and the Perfect Ride
Jaimal Yogis
Surf for Your Life
Mick Fanning
The World in the Curl: An Unconventional History of Surfing
Peter Westwick
BAD KARMA: The True Story of a Mexico Trip from Hell
Paul Wilson
Making Mavericks
Frosty Hesson
Swell: A Sailing Surfer's Voyage of Awakening
Liz Clark
Surf Science : An Introduction to Waves for Surfing
Tony Butt
Eddie Would Go: The Story of Eddie Aikau, Hawaiian Hero and Pioneer of Big Wave Surfing
Stuart Holmes Coleman
In Waves
A.J. Dungo
Welcome to Paradise, Now Go to Hell: A True Story of Violence, Corruption, and the Soul of Surfing
Chas Smith
Surf Is Where You Find It
Gerry Lopez
The History of Surfing
Matt Warshaw
Caught Inside: A Surfer's Year on the California Coast
Daniel Duane
Pipe Dreams: A Surfer's Journey
Kelly Slater
Let My People Go Surfing: The Education of a Reluctant Businessman
Yvon Chouinard
In Search of Captain Zero: A Surfer's Road Trip Beyond the End of the Road
Allan C. Weisbecker
Kook: What Surfing Taught Me About Love, Life, and Catching the Perfect Wave
Peter Heller
Saltwater Buddha: A Surfer's Quest to Find Zen on the Sea
The Wave: In Pursuit of the Rogues, Freaks, and Giants of the Ocean
Susan Casey
Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life
William Finnegan
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